Anchorages in review - San Juanico and weather challenges

Thank goodness for the 'flopper stopper'

Our stay at San Juanico was overall a great one.  Although tempered by the strong winds and the ongoing need to plan ahead for a good weather window to leave for anchorages further north, we like it here.  Definitely the cruisers' conundrum:  when should we leave?

We were receiving weather reports such as:  "fresh north winds will commence in the Gulf from 26 N - 29 N by Sunday night as an inverted surface trough develops along the eastern coastal sections of the gulf with high pressure shifting closer to the Baja Peninsular from W - NW...".  
Then we'd get reports of winds to be in the W 19 -25 knots and seas WNW 4 - 7 feet at 5 seconds for that Saturday followed by NW 16 - 21 knots with seas NW 2 - 4 feet at 3 seconds for the Sunday under consideration.  The third day out (Monday) promised the strongest weather, with WNW 17 - 23  knot winds and seas 3 - 6 feet at 4 seconds.  As we've mentioned, although the winds and direction are certainly a consideration in planning our next passage, it is the 'bufaloes' or short, square waves at very short intervals, which make for lumpy, rolly, uncomfortable hours.  These waves are very effective at stopping forward motion when you finally get the sails set to head in the right direction.
[BTW:  a knot is 0.539956803456 of a km/hour]

The cruisers' nets provide us with first hand information about what folks were currently experiencing in their anchorages and passages.  A few boats in San Juanico anchorage started out on Sunday, very early, hoping to make headway long before the winds and seas built.  They had turned back and were re-anchored by the time we were having breakfast.  There was no respite that day, as the seas had not laid down overnight.  By 11:00 we had 17 - 20 knots (31 - 37 kms/hour) and white caps out in the channel, with 2 foot wind waves slapping at the hull.  Forecast was accurate!

Water bird ballet

The local wildlife were out and about in spite of the brisk conditions.  We viewed the rafts of small sea birds who floated nearby, expertly choreographed to turn and dive as one and pop up beside another vessel.  Our best guess is that they were 'Eared grebes'.  A neighbour radioed over that she had spotted a pinkish toned sea lion nearby.

On Monday, Geary's weather report advised of a 7 mb gradient in the Sea, which meant more strong winds, with a Tuesday forecast of N 13 - 17 and Wednesday of ESE 15 - 19 knots.  The weather  reports from "Stan" were for Tuesday NW 10 - 15 and Wednesday SE 5 - 10 and seas flat.  A bit of a variance; although, as we all appreciate, these forecasts are for a large, general area, not taking into account local conditions.  So, that gives you a sense of what we puzzle over when considering our next moves.  By now, we were looking at the remaining days we had available; not exactly a 'schedule', but still some pressure to move on and possibly by-pass some 'would be nice' spots.  The forecasts for the day of NNW 9 -11 for the Southern Crossing (south of us) and N 12 -15 (north of us near Santa Rosalia) promised reasonable breezes and the morning was calm and settled.

The Captain figured conditions wouldn't be better and jumped in the cold! water (68 F) to check the propeller and zincs; all was well.  We dinghied to the beach to stretch our legs and chat with other folks who were walking their dogs.  Homeward bound the waves were building and we noticed our snubber had jumped off the anchor chain; it was a wet time fixing it.  Time to let out more chain.  Our weather log for the day says "HA!!  At 12:35 we were getting gusts up to 23 knots (42 kms/hour).  By 16:30 some calmness returned to the waters and folks were out and about again.  So the 2nd bocce tournament was a go on the beach.  Another chance to relax and compare notes for departures.  By now we were all decided we had to keep moving and would take what the weather gods sent.

Pelicanos...just bobbing along

Anchorages in review - San Juanico (April 13 - 18)

Anchored facing easterly swells

Saturday April 14th: Happy 6th Birthday Gracie! 

Jester, Jabber and Admiral ashore

Here we are!  On our arrival here in February we didn't put the dinghy in the water and headed south much too soon.  This morning it's time to explore!  We have a 'baby Bruce' anchor for our dinghy and ensured it was well secured before we headed off to stretch our legs. Time to get reacquainted with all that is special about San Juanico.  Kelly headed out on the dry, dusty road around to La Ramada.  Carol explored for shells and set a slower pace.  By noon a light chop has arisen, giving us a bouncy exit out of the dinghy back onboard.  Shades of things to come.

Captain returning from hike

Trail starts here....

Behind the beach...trails and a dusty road inland

Low tide with the Spires on left (osprey nests) and the Hump on right

SV Content crew on beach

Later we puttered around in the dinghy; said hello to Phyllis, Gary and Sophie aboard SV Appolima out of Vancouver and chatted about the 'old days' in Bluewater Cruising.  We met Paula, Bill and boat dogs Max and Emma coming back from a run on the beach  We've have many sociable visits with this crew as our travels continued.

That evening, tuned in to the Southbound Net, we heard the sad news that Don Anderson, SV Summer Passage, had passed away onboard his boat and was found by friends this morning.  Don was a well regarded "weather guru" of the Amigo and Southbound nets; his forecasts and advice were the basis for many cruisers' decisions or at the very least, given serious consideration.  It was a somber moment; each of us had specific moments to recall in our contacts with this generous man who had spent so much of his time giving back to the cruising community.

[Don's obituary in part:  Scientist and long-time sailor, Donald Anderson, passed away on April 13, 2012, aboard his boat, Summer Passage. Don was well known in both the scientific and yachting communities to which he provided many years of leadership and service. His sudden passing was a shock to his family and friends.  More than anything else, Don loved to sail. He built and raced small boats in the 1950s and 60s, and in 1970, acquired his first offshore sailboat, the 32-foot Scotch Mist. In 1973, Don accepted a transfer with Chevron to Southern California where he joined Balboa Yacht Club and continued his racing success. Don, with family and friends, would race and cruise Scotch Mist extensively for the next 20 years. In particular, Don and Scotch Mist were heavy weather animals-the meaner the race, the better they did. Don's name may be found engraved on several major ocean racing perpetual trophies... In 1991, Don married his second wife, Joan. A year later they purchased the Valiant 47, Summer Passage and began outfitting her for globe-circling voyages to fulfill one of Don's lifelong dreams.  In 1998, Don and Joan sailed to Hawaii from Newport Beach, beginning what would become a 30,000 mile cruise through the South Pacific and South America. It was during his time in the South Pacific that Don began sharing his weather observations with fellow cruisers as Summer Passage was equipped with receivers for real-time and forecast marine weather.  Don would say that growing up in the British Isles, "Weather was always the first topic of polite conversation, even between complete strangers." Upon returning to California, Don honed his weather forecasting and routing skills, and in 2002, he and Joan moved to Oxnard, where Don constructed a world-class radio station providing the capability to transmit his weather information to hundreds of yachtsmen throughout the Pacific. Many of these "strangers," some of whom he would never meet in person, became Don's close friends. He kept a regular and rigorous schedule on the "nets" where Don's voice is now sorely missed.]

Summarizing our time at San Juanico:

Walks on the beach, introducing new folks to the "cruisers' shrine" and seeing if our INTREPID II burgee was still holding up from 2009 and 2010. It needs to be repainted for sure.  World class Bocce Tournaments, enjoying the antics of four legged friends, playing Mexican Train dominos aboard Mood Indigo, wondering where on earth the National Geographic ship would anchor and whether we`d all get invited for cocktails (not!).  Kelly and Bill going fishing and not noticing the wind picking up in their sheltered cove; Paula and I each rehearsing "Plan B" if our anchors dragged and the fellows were still focused on the fish!  Watching, as always the ospreys on their nest and soaring around spotting their next meal. Moon rise over the Spires, countless stars overhead.  Hunkering down when the wind blew strong, wet dinghy rides ashore when it died down; planning for the next leg.  Having to head north all too soon.

Cruisers`shrine 

Max looking for his tennis ball

Emma and Mo - should we go in...

Successful Fishermen heading back

National Geographic arrives

A peaceful evening

A very special place 

Anchorages in review - San Juanico - Arrival (April 13)

Nav station with weather notes, log book and 'to do' list

Friday, April 13th: we often hear that cruisers should not head out on this date.  We rationalize that our cruise is 'in progress'.  We left La Paz ten days ago and our log book records this fact for any wind or sea gods to please take note!

It is 69 F in the cabin, 62 F outside, 67 in the pool and the bar is 1014. Stan's forecast is for W 4 - 6 kms and WSW 12 - 16 kms at night for the northern half of the Sea; NW 14 - 19, with WNW 6 - 8 for the southern half. Saturday could be W 15 - 21. These are weather updates we receive via Winlink from a volunteer weather guru who's full time job is as a vet.  Guru Geary advises for the northern crossing (Santa Rosalia to Guaymas) Friday am NE 6 - 9 with afternoon winds ENE 13 - 17; for Saturday NE 18 - 23 kms.  The Loreto area should see SSE 10 - 13 kms for the afternoon.

Checking out cruising guide enroute

Basically we know the winds will be stronger in the next few days.  We want to be someplace secure where we can spend a few days with some options for moving around as the winds sort themselves out.  36 nautical miles away lies Caleta San Juanico, tucked in behind Punta San Basillio.  This anchorage is a special place and one we always look forward to.  Today we were underway by 08:15, expecting to take 7 hours for the trip.

Heading north we quickly were hit by 2 - 3 foot swells from the north-east. These would continue for the entire trip, building to 4 and 5 feet at times; definitely impacting our progress.  This was a motor sail trip.  The winds finally picked up to 12 knots SE at 14:30, so we got a boost at long last. Along the way we heard SV Salish Sea on the VHF and found that Ian and Diane were heading into Guaymas already for their haulout.  The reception was so clear we thought they were on the Baja peninsula side!

As we headed into Caleta San Juanico, the winds shifted to the east and we wondered what that would bring in the way of swells. The small bay in front of the cruisers' shrine was occupied by one sailboat in such a considerate way no one else could fit in.  Everyone else had lined up further west from north to south. INTREPID II 'parked' between Mood Indigo to port and Content to starboard.

San Juanico neighbours

INTREPID II at anchor San Juanico

On with the anchor snubber, out with the flopper stoppers; with one out off the boom to starboard, anticipating those easterly swells.  By 15:00 we were settled in at 26 degrees 22.001 N, 111 degrees 25.831 W, looking forward to a few days of rest, hiking and catching up with friends.  There were so many things to record that we'll have to have a separate blog posting!

Catch-up: Guaymas to San Juanico February 7 - 9

This is a more detailed description of our passage from Guaymas westward to Caleta San Juanico a few weeks ago:

As we commented in our earlier 'summary', our departure from Guaymas was challenged by unexpected fog and the temporary closure of the port.  Once we were well underway and through the last of the fog banks, INTREPID II responded well to being back at sea at long last.  Our concern about growth on the propeller and waterline seemed needless, as she made good time.  The engine stayed on to charge the batteries as we were using radar and the auto-pilot through the fog banks and on into the night.  Our main was up and the jib was rolled out whenever we picked up enough wind to throttle back the engine yet make around 6 knots.

Captain catching 20 winks

We made an attempt to take turns resting during the late afternoon and evening, anticipating our usual lack of a good night's sleep on a first overnight passage.  Dinner was a hearty bowl of soup with crackers followed by a hot cup of tea in the cockpit.  The sun set and the full moon rose soon after, amidst clouds, but still illuminating the sea and providing a silvery backdrop to the horizon.  About 23:00 hours Kelly spotted lightening in the distance - 12 to 15 nm to the north.  We continued to see flashes from time to time both to the north towards Santa Rosalia and south towards Loreto.  The radar allows us to pick up storm cells and gives us a sense of how quickly the clouds are passing by.

Nearing San Juanico at sunrise

By 02:00 Wednesday morning, we felt the spatter of tiny raindrops and at 04:40 a heavy downpour had us glad we'd kept up the bimini even though we were still in our foul weather gear, with hats and gloves to ward off the night chill.  By 07:00 we were 2 miles from our way-point outside the entrance to Caleta San Juanico and could make out the shape of Punta Pulpita to the north and the opening to the bay. Sunrise soon followed and our eyes adjusted to locate the familiar shape of the Spires, as a motor vessel headed south out of the anchorage.  We were surprised to find as we dropped the main and slowly motored in that we had the place all to ourselves and could pick our anchoring spot .  A real novelty.

07:50 - anchor down, SPOT message sent out saying 'here we are - all is well'. We checked in with the Sonrisa ham net to say we'd arrived safely.  A quick check to make certain we'd stowed and tidied all on deck and in the cabin, then we settled down to a few hours of well earned sleep.  Later that afternoon, we were joined by SV Mystique, who considerately anchored a distance away, but gave us a friendly call on the VHF to compare notes.

The Spires by day, with light choppy seas

The Spires by full moonlight

That evening we spent time on deck after dark star-gazing at a clear, dark canopy, with brilliant, sharp points of light throughout the night sky.  That's what we'd hoped for during our crossing, but were appreciating it all the more. The golden moon, still full, rose behind the "Spires" at our stern, and dramatically outlined these jagged rocks.  Of course, pictures could not do it justice.  We retired for the night with a renewed sense of why journeying by sailboat to such anchorages was so special.

The next morning was clear, but the northern winds began to blow early and we chose to enjoy our view from the boat.  The forecast NNW  11 - 14 knot winds were actually in the 18 - 23 knot range before they settled down to 11 - 15 knots for the next few hours.  Still it was a sun-shiny day.  Kelly had deployed both flopper-stoppers to stabilize our rolling in the south-east swells finding their way into the anchorage.  The Mystique crew, Terry and Patricia, did take their dinghy out for a spin and stopped by for a chat before heading back.  Shortly after, a familiar red-hulled sailboat glided in and anchored to the south of us, SV Char-Anne.  Our turn to call them on the radio and wish them a good evening.

San Juanico - clear blue water and rocky islets

The weather forecast predicted a change to south-east winds; we made a decision to move on the following day.  Friday morning, we raised anchor and motored slowly past SV Char-Anne to say adios and wish them a quiet stay.  Their turn to have the place to themselves, as Mystique had left earlier.

Next stop is towards Isla Carmen to the east of Loreto;  perhaps Puerto Ballandra anchorage, a new destination for INTREPID II.

Towards Caleta San Juanico - Mar. 19-22

An early day with 40 nm to go.  We carried out our regular check in with the Sonrisa Ham net at 07:30 as a vessel "underway" to let folks know we were moving on again and listened to Geary's weather report.   What's new in the Sea?  It seems those north westerlies are moving in sooner than anticipated, so we will bypass Islas Coronados , going for Caleta San Juanico.  That should be a sail of 8 hours more or less.

San Juanico is located in notch by Punta San Basilio on this chartlet  (centre and one third from top)

Once underway, Kelly spotted a high, strong plume of spray early on.  Possibly a Blue whale (Balaenoptera musculus), as some were still in the area and then a long string of dolphins heading south but they didn't stop to chat.  It is challenging to determine what we are viewing at times, but the photo and image below give you a bit of a sense of the size of this amazing animal.  This baleen whale can reach 30 metres (98 feet) and weigh up to 180 tonnes - the largest living animal.

Blue whale as far as we could tell

image courtesy of cetus.uscd.edu

As we continued on our journey we had light swell, rippled seas, a sunny sky and no clouds.  Off Punta Lobos we encountered confused seas and more swell and some current as we were on a falling tide.  There must have been good fishing on a bank to our starboard side as we passed Islas Coronado to the west - pangas and small fishing boats were moving here and there as we passed by.

It seemed a good time to start up the water maker. We also considered with the light winds if it would be worth raising the spinnaker.  It might give us 1 knot extra and not really worth the effort.  Finally there was enough wind to roll out the jib and motor sail.  The wind came from aft, SE, just enough to keep the sail full and INTREPID II doing 5.9 - 6 knots. 

Caleta San Juanico - distinctive spires

We arrived in the anchorage of Caleta San Juanico around 14:00 (2 pm).  Only the "second best spots" remained.  They seemed not quite as well protected, but provided lots of swinging room and there was some SE wind protection if needed across the bay.  We counted nine boats around us and anchored in 21 feet, just as the winds picked up from the SE!  An hour later they shifted to the NE and blew for an hour - variety - just what we needed!  Kelly put out our trusty flopper-stopper which made the night fairly restful as it smoothed out the side to side rolling. 

We stayed at anchor until Monday, March 22nd. That gave us a chance to meet new cruising folk on the beach, visit with some on their boats (hola Mood Indigo!) and put our hand-crafted burgee on the Cruisers' Shrine (tree), next to the lovely and creative sign left by the Whiteshell II folks.  This area has good walks, fossils in the sandstone and obsidian beads known as "Apache Tears".  We had fun exploring, looking and taking pictures.  A good place to spend some time, and then move on.

Miniature Hoodoos

Sandstone

Kelly at the Cruisers' Shrine

INTREPID II hand-made burgee and Whiteshell II work of art

Long dusty road to stretch legs

INTREPID II at anchor Caleta San Juanico