An Overdue Update - December 12

Hola and thanks for your patience as we focus on our efforts to coordinate repairs and day to day living in San Carlos.
INTREPID II is still in the dry storage works yard while we enjoy this seaside view for another week or so. Our condo unit is one of six in a complex a few blocks from Marina San Carlos and conveniently positioned to receive the full impact of the weekend weddings and other celebrations held across the bay at Club Duo, an event centre of a nearby hotel. How to say "sleep deprived" in Spanish?
Our plans to have the rigging repairs and assorted top of the mast tasks are on hold while our rigger waits for his multiple orders to reach Tucson; only then will a friend wander north to bring back the complete order. If only we had known.
The keel repairs seemed to proceed well, with much grinding out and patching and fibreglass repair.

The radar conundrum remains.  Replacing the magnetron with another the electronics man found only marginally made a difference. It seems a new radar is required which would entail pulling the mast and removing the existing cabling which seems to be tied within. That would be a time consuming task and may have to wait.
However, the bottom painting is one more task off the list. Kelly completed it over the past 2 days and the deep red colour is a change from the standard blue we have used in the past.

And as of an hour ago, we tested the engine and gears, which cooperated to our relief.
An out of water survey is still outstanding before we can splash and motor to a spot in the nearby marina. That event is scheduled for the 18th at 7 a.m. due to tides.  At the moment all that is available is an outside slip on A dock for a 51 foot boat. The marina promises to move us to B dock as soon as a spot opens up. Last year we never did get moved over, so we will keep fingers crossed.
In between times, we have met many cruisers from previous years as well as new arrivals.  We have returned to favorite food stores and Saturday and Sunday markets. The local ferreteria (hardware store) often sees the Captain several times in one day.
As much as possible we are having meals "at home" to stretch the budget, but a few times a week we will treat ourselves to a sociable evening and dinner.
So in spite of daunting tasks and unknown time lines we are mostly well and mostly optimistic. Christmas is fast approaching and it is time to get into the holiday spirit.

When best laid plans go sideways

"We have stayed too long in Mexico!"  That thought appeared along with the news that INTREPID II had been a casualty of Hurricane Sergio even though it was 'merely' Tropical Storm Sergio as it made landfall over San Carlos.  Our turn? Once the Captain arrived October 25th after four long days of driving to see for himself, it appears that Mother Nature was not the only cause of the domino effect which toppled our vessel.

INTREPID II and Captain Kelly March 2018

Having left INTREPID II well secured in dry storage, with the added precaution of being between hurricane poles and with a sturdy, well secured sailboat to port, we were hopeful she would weather named storms as she had successfully done in the past.

 Kelly's assessment of the situation is that when a sailboat to our portside was moved out after our departure and a smaller 'racing' sailboat inserted, the resulting setup was not as secure as required.  That boat and stands gave way and initiated the dreaded 'domino' effect.

Credit to "Steve" who took photos onsite - INTREPID II second from left

INTREPID II has been in the works yard for just over two weeks now.  There are bumps, bruises, dings, scratches, splinters, bent stanchions, rigging to replace, and a non-functioning radar - perhaps other things once other systems are checked.  Work is taking place, ongoing trips into Guaymas to visit the radar repair shop and long days for the Captain.
Added to this challenge is that of phone communications, which has tested our patience as we attempt to stay in contact, carry out research and consult on decisions.  Nothing is uncomplicated or  straightforward, either at home or in San Carlos.
The Admiral is flying south soon, once the remaining tasks at home are complete. With both of us reunited after a month of long distance logistics, we hope for some R & R time in between giving INTREPID II ongoing TLC.
We remain hopeful we can salvage some sort of cruising season or plan some land based exploration.

Homeward: Prescott to Joshua Tree National Park

Roja Grande - Joshua Tree National Park

Saturday March 24th - Prescott to Ehrenburg CA:  A leisurely morning of packing, loading our overnight bags into Roja Grande and saying our farewells and once more we were underway.  Our route took us along Hwy 69 to connect with I-17 for a time, with the intent to follow the "Carefree Highway" AZ 74, which runs north of I-10.  Some mysterious 'special event' had backed up traffic so we had to quickly check for alternate routes and memorial parkways around Greater Phoenix - and ended up on I-10 in spite of best laid plans.  A flashing highway sign advised of a further detour which led us north to Vickburg Junction and back south west along Hwy 60, joining I-10 again east of Quartzsite.  Our inconvenience and wondering paled when we found out that there had been a serious accident with fatalities; a driver headed east on the westbound lanes struck and killed at least 3 people.  Somewhat subdued, we checked into our accommodation in the truck stop of Ehrenburg near the Arizona western border.  Not much to do or see and fast food for dinner, but it gave us a chance for an early start the next morning.

Sunday March 25th - Ehrenburg AZ to Joshua Tree National Park CA:  With an reasonable night's rest and an early-ish start, we headed west, crossing the Colorado River forming the Arizona-California border. Not long after we stopped at the Churiaco Summit travel stop and were impressed with the activity and amenities it offers, including including a museum to honour General Patton and his Desert Training Center from WWII.  Members of the Churiaco family continue to operate the gas station, 'general store', bakery and accommodations.  The Admiral appreciated the facilities.  Within minutes we turned north onto Cottonwood Springs Road and had entered Joshua Tree National Park from the south.

Kelly had been impressed and enthusiastic about his first visit to the park, so we were both looking forward to spending almost an entire day driving and walking the trails.  We drove and stopped and walked and took photos, had a picnic lunch and continued, avoiding the most crowded stops and having an easy yet invigorating day. The park website has excellent descriptions as reference:  https://www.nps.gov/jotr/learn/historyculture/parkhistory.htm

Our photos capture only a small part of the park's essence and atmosphere.

Cottonwood Springs and Fan Palms

Cottonwood Springs - Delicate wildflowers 

Ocatillo in Bloom

Cholla Cactus Garden

Cholla Cactus in bloom

Beavertail cactus - striking blooms

 

Rock formations near White Tank campground - one of the best spots for night time star gazing

And finally - Joshua Trees in profusion!

By late afternoon we were heading out of the western side of the park towards Yucca Valley where we had booked our stay.  Although we were tempted to head back in after dark for night sky viewing, by the time we had checked in, freshened up and found a diner for dinner and finally, a gas station, it was time for a good night's rest.  This park is one we would never tire of visiting.

Our Homeward Journey - San Carlos to Prescott AZ

Patagonia - Sonoita Scenic Drive State Hwy 82

We have been home for over two months now, and although photos were loaded onto the laptop and edited for uploading, the time to finalize the last blog post of this cruising season has been elusive.
However, it is a rainy morning in mid June - what better opportunity to post photos and comments of our homeward journey.

Tuesday, March 20th:  'adios' to San Carlos and north to Nogales and the USA border.  All went well, as we zigged and zagged along the construction detours, with clear skies. No request to stop and be inspected and a tedious but reasonable wait at the border.  We skirted the southern edge of Nogales on our way through Patagonia towards Benson, Arizona where we spent two nights and visited the intriguing Kartchner Caverns and hiked a nearby trail.   The wild West is alive and performing daily at nearby Tombstone.  No photos are permitted underground; however their website is very informative. [https://azstateparks.com/kartchner]

Patagonia - lunch stop at Wagon Wheel Saloon

Benson - Railway Engineer certificate for the Captain

Gardens at Kartchner Caverns 

Carol at Foothills trail head - bring water and watch for critters!

Kelly exploring trails before our underground excursion

Tombstone - gunfights and tours daily

Thursday, March 22:  Benson  to Prescott Arizona.  To avoid the joys of Tucson and Phoenix traffic jams, we headed east on I-10 from Benson, then north on US Hwy 70 towards Globe.  This route is still quite desert and scrub filled and passes through a portion of the San Carlos Apache reservation.  We had a quick lunch stop in Globe, refueled our truck and turned north onto State HWY 188 and into the Tonto National Forest.  This route was actually not as isolated as expected and near Roosevelt Lake there was a considerable gathering of campers and other vehicles.

Nearing Lake Theodore Roosevelt in Tonto National Forest, Arizona

With thanks to Wikipedia:  "The Tonto National Forest, encompassing 2,873,200 acres, is the largest of the six national forests in Arizona and is the fifth largest US national forest. It includes elevations ranging from 1,400 feet (427 m) in the Sonoran Desert portion, to 7,400 feet in the ponderosa pine forests of the Mogollon Rim. The Tonto Forest Reserve was established on October 3, 1905.   A land swap proposed as a part of the 2015 National Defense Authorization Act would permit a subsidiary of the Rio Tinto mining conglomerate, Resolution Copper Co., to acquire 2,400 acres of the Tonto National Forest, considered sacred for the San Carlos Apache Tribe, for copper mining." 
Not sure how or whether that major issue has been resolved.

This mountain route joins Hwy 88 and turns northward to Payson in Gila County; another rest and fuel stop in what appears a good size community in the near centre of the state.  And a 'gravol' top-up for the Admiral who read the map and was not looking forward to the twists and turns and switchbacks to come.  They did not disappoint! After passing the small community of Strawberry, for a short but amazing time we were on the western portion of National Forest road 300 - the Rim Road.  TheTown of Payson website describes the effects of the Mogollon Rim area in these terms:

"At Fulton Point, at the western intersection of the Rim Road and State 260, stand at its promontory and gaze down at a mob of ponderosas, a deep green ocean that ripples softly over the miles, interrupted by a brown dot of a ranch clearing here or there, back to the blue mountains, each ranch defined by a ragged line that grows fainter as it goes, the mist thickening, until finally, the last one is shrouded in silver, the way heaven must look. The beauty will capture you.  It does anyone who breathes oxygen.  Don’t be surprised to find visitors, any time from dawn through the blackest part of night, sitting in a dreamlike state at one promontory or another.  Western writer Zane Grey, who wrote several of his books nearby at a cabin on Tonto Creek, once told an interviewer that he liked to sit on the Rim and ponder."

Our schedule hadn't anticipate savouring these viewpoints except from the road. We joined HWY 260, an east-west corridor, for the final switchback climb into pondersa forest plateau, then descended into the Verde River valley near Campe Verde. Whew! Roads less traveled appeal to the Captain and this served the purpose.  It was time to join I-17 south for all of 20 minutes before turning right onto Hwy 169 westward towards Prescott for a reunion with friends Diane and John. It is one of the joys of cruising, that when sailing folks extend an invitation to stop by for a visit, they mean it - even if it takes awhile to arrive at their doorstep!  The Olsens made us welcome, provided generous hospitality and ensured we saw the highlights of this special part of Arizona during our visit.

Seeing Prescott with the Olsens - and Ziggy

Thumb Butte - from a distance

Lake view - must return to hike the trails

Hmm...the rain has stopped, the sun is out.  A good time "to be continued".

Winding down and saying adios - March 18

Soft San Carlos Sunrise - we will miss this view!

Hola! Hope you have excused the lack of updates these past four weeks as we spent countless hours visiting doctors and taking an abundance of medication.  Energy for boat projects came in sporadic bursts.  Happily, we hope we are on the mend.  Unhappily, we have wrapped up our "cruising season" and INTREPID II is now settled in her spot at Marina Seca San Carlos for the coming months.

Who could have predicted such a combination of events and situations which led us to spend almost four months on land, in rental accommodations while INTREPID II rocked in her slip on A dock?
Many projects were completed successfully.  We met many cruising folk and renewed friendships from earlier seasons.  INTREPID II received abundant attention, cleaning, new or improved parts, curtains, covers, lines and TLC.  We found we were not alone in the setbacks which saw many boats remain at the dock, or at anchor, or leave and return unexpectedly.  Things happen.  There were also fortunate cruisers who 'got away' and are making up for lost time.  We look forward to hearing and reading their stories.

On Wednesday, March 14, bright and early for high tide, INTREPID II slipped her dock lines and motored to the haul out dock at Marina San Carlos.  She was slipped into a cozy spot in the works yard for a few days of decommissioning and securing, wrapping and stowing; the skies were grey and muggy, the wind strong and blustery.  We finished the last of the aluminum wraps, tightened lines around fabric covering winches, windlass and boom.

INTREPID II heading from marina to works yard

Trailer positioning INTREPID II into space at works yard

Stands are secured with chain

Not a ghost - we are trying flannel and line to protect winches

Boom and boom vang wrapped and tied

Companionway cover wrapped in foil to keep out heat

Windlass all cozy and tucked in

The works yard was a busy place on Saturday morning, with boats coming in, going to the marina, going into storage.  Our turn came just after noon and the skillful crew guided INTREPID II into a new location, on row C, which has hurricane poles in addition to the usual stands. A few photos of the well orchestrated procedure:

Trailer pulling INTREPID II into dry storage yard

INTREPID II moving into place next to ROSEBUD 

INTREPID II in place Row C

Setting support stands securely

Hopefully enough support for the rains, winds and whatever occurs in the coming months

A fond adios to INTREPID II until next cruising season

No time to rest on our laurels, though.  Our remaining days are busy with sorting and packing our truck for the homeward journey.  Tomorrow, Monday, March 19th, is a national holiday, celebrating the birthday of Benito Juarez, so banks, offices and schools are closed. We plan to leave Tuesday morning and head through Hermosilla and on to the border.  Who knows how long it will take at the Army checkpoint or the border?  We may checkout the highway which cuts over northeast to Naco and is still within the "hassle free" zone.  To be determined.  Plans so far include a stop to view the highly recommended Kartchner Caverns near Benson followed by a visit with cruising friends.

Cheers.

Monday musings - February 19

Monday musings....all weekend as we dutifully followed our schedule of medications, we considered what the coming weeks have in store for INTREPID II.  There is only so much flexibility that can be built into a cruising season and we didn't allow for as much 'under the weather' time. The "San Carlos crud" we referred to earlier was actually more serious for the Captain and understandably has meant less energetic efforts on the boat.  Progress is being made of course, but the weeks slide by; cruising is still our hope, even for a few short weeks.  Stay tuned.

In the meantime, we made a second visit to the nearby Estero de Soldado on Saturday afternoon, as we had read in the local birding report of sightings of Roseate Spoonbills.  A bird we had never observed.  There are several 'off the road' tracks near the estuary and one led us to a gap in the vegetation, where we stopped and parked.  The first birds we spotted were not far away and not of the delicate, rosy variety.  A pair of Black Vultures ( Coragyps atratus) were standing quietly by observing.  The field guide mentions the 'wrinkled grey' neck and all blackish colouration of feathers with silvery patches on the wingtips.  Very conservative and still.

Black Vulture pair (Coragyps atratus)

Closer to the water we were enthused to view a pair of what had to be Roseate Spoonbills (Platalea ajaja) feeding in the shallows, although they were at a distance.  These wading birds nest and roost in low trees and forage by walking slowly, sweeping their bills from side to side to capture fish and invertebrates.  The 'spoon-shaped' bill is indeed distinctive when raised out of the water.  Based on our Sibley's guide we assume we were seeing 2nd year birds, as they were missing a distinctive reddish section to their plumage.  

Roseate Spoonbills ( Platalea ajaja)

Even from a distance, we were able to spot several other residents of the estuary and check our findings in the field guide.  Our 'best guess' is attached to each.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)