Aqua Verde (25 31.425 N, 111 04.419 W)

Aqua Verde was one of several anchorages we looked forward to exploring this season.  It lies south of Puerto Escondido and is in the cruising area near Loreto area marine park.  We chose not to stop at Puerto Escondido, as we had adequate fuel and water.

Isla Danzante - a sleeping dragon

After the thrill of  the large pod of Bottle nose dolphins keep us company for over 20 minutes, we continued on with our motor-sail.  We viewed Bahia Marquer, which is more of an open indentation than an actual bay towards the south west end of Carmen. Our position on the water showed the characteristics of Isla Danzante, which tend to resemble more the 'sleeping dragon' silhouette than that of a dancer.

Roca Solitario at the entrance to Aqua Verde

This route had us bypass Los Candeleros, the three 'candle stub-like' islands we had skirted on previous northward sails. As the mid-day winds picked up, we started to watch for Roca Solitario, which is a prominent  rock outside the entrance to Aqua Verde.  The seas started to develop a swell and some chop.  We were glad we'd left in ample time to enjoy a pleasant, rather than insistent wind.  Looking into the anchorage we made out some catamarans anchored for scuba diving near one set of islands.  Several sailboats pass by both north and south, all of us with differing agendas.

Aqua Verde is a small fishing community and prized for its beautiful turquoise green waters. The fact that it has both north and south lobes, offers protection in various wind conditions, except from the east. Roca Solitario also offers excellent snorkeling and diving  opportunities; if and when the weather goes above 68 degrees! We had rolled up the jib earlier, then turned INTREPID II into the north east wind to drop the main once we entered the bay.  The bimini offers us protection from UV rays, but obscures seeing the wind direction from the helm.  Suddenly the mainsail was dropping to port in great folds, straining our Dutchman lines past the breaking point.  Kelly managed to tidy up the mainsail (with a few editorial comments).  We motored on towards the north cove wondering if we could find a suitable spot inside the reef.  There were three boats in prime spots and pangas filled the space in front of the beach.  (Note:  The mono filament lines were shortly re-threaded through the mainsail and tucked into their pocket; all was well.)

Aqua Verde looking east

Pangas and Buildings on north beach

INTREPID II  at anchor in Aqua Verde

Closer in to shore our perspective improved.  We anchored close in, checking with the folks on nearby boats for the scope they had out.  Our challenge also included a charted rock lying some 8 to 10 feet under water in prime anchoring space.  Aqua Verde wasn't quite what we expected from its rave reviews.  In this north cove, the hills rise high to the north west, blocking the view of sunsets and the hills to the south east.  Though offering good wind protection, they block the sunrise.  However, we deemed that a small price to pay for calmer waters and reasonable wind protection. Soon we had a visit from Greg and Janet and boat dog Atajo, who had arrived just after us and chose the south cove for the night.  They had departed from Guaymas in early January and we enjoyed comparing notes on our activities since that time.  Atajo has the honour of being our first onboard canine visitor.

The following day we dinghied ashore with hopes of stretching our legs on a long walk over trails noted in the cruising guides. Closeup they certainly appeared more like goat trails, offering limited footing up and over some of the nearby ridges.  Our hike therefore was more of a meander with stops for photos and to admire the various view scapes and perspectives.  Onshore there are two buildings which appear to be occupied by members of the village fishing co-operative.  It does not appear that the "Aqua Verde Yacht Club" is even a virtual site any longer.  The fishing folk have raised up wire fences to indicate the structures are in use.

Panga and fishing shed off our stern

Beach cliffs

We have now met George, captain of  the SV Susie.  We'd heard of this capable fellow, often single-handing, over the past 3 years, yet never crossed paths.  He has a unique radio presence in describing his mechanical crew and we were pleased to finally have a chat with him after his arrival. George left later on Tuesday afternoon.   His presence was replaced by three motor vessels of varying size and one sailboat to keep us company.


Kelly took the water temperature - a cool 65 - 66 degrees, decided it wasn't about to warm up much, nor would he have calmer waters to check the propeller and zincs.  Into his westsuit, then into the turquoise waters....brrr!  Surprisingly, the water is not overly clear, but once under the boat he could see that all was well.  No growth on the propeller and the zinc was in good shape.

Good news - the prop and zinc are in good shape

Tuesday was Valentine's Day.  We celebrated by preparing a flavourful meal including a small steak we'd saved for the occasion and a bottle of white wine. Salud!

Friday night in the big city!



Mural on the wall of the RV Park in San Carlos

19:00 hours (07:00 pm) The music is absolutely exuberant and right next door across the small expanse of water. If only we were here on holidays, could take siestas and party until 3 am!!  The Captain is calling down from the cockpit that there is a parade of sorts, trucks loaded with big speakers towing floats and heading towards the Fisherman statue. Lights are flashing, fireworks set off, but there are nowhere near the number of people you would expect for all the frenetic energy being expended.  Who knows what the rest of the evening and early hours of tomorrow morning will bring!  We expect this is a lead up to Carnaval which will take place starting February 16th. 

Our dancing shoes are tucked away in a locker and we've just finished a very tasty dinner at home: red snapper "roja imperial", pan-fried with a panko breadcrumb and herb coating, steamed  broccoli and cauliflower and colourful fusilli pasta.  Of course an economical but presentable white wine. We will listen to the music; now there are horns and a rapid drum beat over-layed with a variety of other instruments; voices over various loudspeakers ramping up the level of energy. Perhaps we will have to venture out to see for ourselves; or not. 

While we are in the midst of all this energetic activity, it still requires a long walk to circumnavigate the parts of the malecon which have yet to be repaired from a previous hurricane.  Huge chunks of concrete still lie askew and unrepaired, preventing a direct walk from the marina to the main part of the malecon.  You must detour down some gravel, walk behind what is usually the space for a variety of midway rides and small food stands, then head towards the wide sweeping sidewalks which are the 'malecon' around the harbour.  It is hard not to think about all the infrastructure projects which are badly needed here  (LGD folks - thinking of you and all those dollars being doled out back home!)

Friends have sent concerned messages about staying safe in Mexico and we reply that we always try to be vigilant without becoming paranoid.  We find Guaymas safe and welcoming for the most part during our visits to the mercado or ferreterias (hardware stores) or walking down Serdan, the main street.  We've been asked for the time and don't feel intimidated nor uncomfortable when walking together or on our own.  Of course, being cruisers, we are rarely out late at night.  Our midnight experiences are vicarious as we stuff plugs in our ears and wonder what the music really sounds like up close!  Hopefully, by the end of this cruising season, we will be able to confirm that once again we have found Mexico and its people to be warm, welcoming and friendly.

As for updates, Kelly successfully made his run north to Nogales on Monday for the topping lift and replacement Dutchman system, along with a variety of purchases at WalMart, Home Depot and Safeway.  I also sent with him a package to the Medical Services Plan folks to be mailed from the U.S. to speed up the delivery time.  Hopefully they will see their way to ensuring I am reimbursed for the excellent medical treatment I received for my vertigo

The wind has not cooperated.  Northers blew again, making it difficult to lay out the mainsail and measure the appropriate spacing for the mono-filament and related attachments.  Today we lugged the mainsail up to the cruisers' lounge and laid it out on the floor to measure and determine the placement of the Dutchman system on the Amsteel line which will now form our new topping lift.  Remember -- measure twice, cut once -- so it's similar to that old carpenter's maxim.

With Kelly on the highway, the Admiral decided to be 'Suzy homemaker' and tackle a week and half of laundry.  That entailed hauling 4 bags up the dock and ramp to the laundry room, only to find signs taped to the dryers that there were no functioning dryers until further notice.  The marina office confirmed that head office in Mexico City had not released funds to pay for the propane to fuel the dryers. It's the latest in a long list of business decisions which impact cruisers at Fonatur marinas without any thought to the flip side.  As in compensation of some sort when a service is not available.  Without going into a long rant (been there!) I sent off emails to the head office suggesting that the cruising community would be more than interested in providing feedback and recommendations for operating a successful and efficient marina. We all have our opinions about what is really behind so many of the decisions which make it difficult for the marina staff to carry out their day to day duties.

Laundry the hard way when the dryers aren't working - more eco-friendly of course!

We found time to explore another few Guaymas highlights, such as the imposing

statue which stands over Guaymas. We don't believe it is of Benito Juarez, despite what the maps say. 

Below is the lovely Cathedral of the Sacred Heart.  It is important to stop and appreciate the efforts the city and its citizens make to celebrate their history and their beliefs and community.

Sacred Heart Cathedral

Arches inside the cathedral

Given the various glitches and side steps we've encountered in our current projects, the Captain advised the marina office that INTREPID II will remain at the dock for another 'semana'. The Northers are building again and won't lie down until at least Monday and we have agreed we won't wear ourselves out racing to complete projects with no down-time.  This means that we will be here for Candlemas or "Candeleria" on February 2nd.  Those of us who found the 'monas' or little statues in the Rosca del Reyes on Epiphany are required to provide a party on that date, featuring tamales.  We have met a lovely lady who lives onboard a sailboat moored near the shrimp boats, Suzy, who has offered to make the tamales for all of us. So we will all participate in yet another Mexican fiesta.  Having made tamales in the past ourselves, we appreciate the work that goes in to these fabulous foods.

We aren't as lonely on the dock as we were last week.  As always Mike on nearby  MV "Fn Fun" holds down the last dock space with his Hatteras (get well Mike...your kite surfing duties await!).  Ken of Plan B came in to the dock for a few days and we always enjoy heading out to brunch at the Armida Hotel with him.  Margaret and Julius and Digby (SV Zeeba) came back in from the anchorage for a night's respite and now have headed south. Tony and Pat are still hard at work on SV Forbes and Cameron. Dick and Arlete successfully launched SV Quatro de Mayo and are fine-tuning things at the fuel dock.  George continues to 'move forward' on SV Mollymawk and Taz holds down the fort in the corner of the dry storage yard.

Surveyors have been busy on the docks and Ted (the marina manager) says that Fonatur does this periodically; who knows if it means anything.  I'm trying to identify the flocks of black birds which flit about around dusk in great flocks with cheerful songs.  Think they are some sort of swift.  They have a regular routine of swooping down just overhead of the docked boats, then zoom over to the malecon and back towards the marina office.(Dannie C. where are you to help - oh yes...by now you should be in San Blas!)

Time to say 'buenas noches'.  Take care everyone and know we are thinking of you!

Enjoying the sunset - pretending we are on vacation!

Yes - we do take time to stop and enjoy the sunsets!

Towards Caleta San Juanico - Mar. 19-22

An early day with 40 nm to go.  We carried out our regular check in with the Sonrisa Ham net at 07:30 as a vessel "underway" to let folks know we were moving on again and listened to Geary's weather report.   What's new in the Sea?  It seems those north westerlies are moving in sooner than anticipated, so we will bypass Islas Coronados , going for Caleta San Juanico.  That should be a sail of 8 hours more or less.

San Juanico is located in notch by Punta San Basilio on this chartlet  (centre and one third from top)

Once underway, Kelly spotted a high, strong plume of spray early on.  Possibly a Blue whale (Balaenoptera musculus), as some were still in the area and then a long string of dolphins heading south but they didn't stop to chat.  It is challenging to determine what we are viewing at times, but the photo and image below give you a bit of a sense of the size of this amazing animal.  This baleen whale can reach 30 metres (98 feet) and weigh up to 180 tonnes - the largest living animal.

Blue whale as far as we could tell

image courtesy of cetus.uscd.edu

As we continued on our journey we had light swell, rippled seas, a sunny sky and no clouds.  Off Punta Lobos we encountered confused seas and more swell and some current as we were on a falling tide.  There must have been good fishing on a bank to our starboard side as we passed Islas Coronado to the west - pangas and small fishing boats were moving here and there as we passed by.

It seemed a good time to start up the water maker. We also considered with the light winds if it would be worth raising the spinnaker.  It might give us 1 knot extra and not really worth the effort.  Finally there was enough wind to roll out the jib and motor sail.  The wind came from aft, SE, just enough to keep the sail full and INTREPID II doing 5.9 - 6 knots. 

Caleta San Juanico - distinctive spires

We arrived in the anchorage of Caleta San Juanico around 14:00 (2 pm).  Only the "second best spots" remained.  They seemed not quite as well protected, but provided lots of swinging room and there was some SE wind protection if needed across the bay.  We counted nine boats around us and anchored in 21 feet, just as the winds picked up from the SE!  An hour later they shifted to the NE and blew for an hour - variety - just what we needed!  Kelly put out our trusty flopper-stopper which made the night fairly restful as it smoothed out the side to side rolling. 

We stayed at anchor until Monday, March 22nd. That gave us a chance to meet new cruising folk on the beach, visit with some on their boats (hola Mood Indigo!) and put our hand-crafted burgee on the Cruisers' Shrine (tree), next to the lovely and creative sign left by the Whiteshell II folks.  This area has good walks, fossils in the sandstone and obsidian beads known as "Apache Tears".  We had fun exploring, looking and taking pictures.  A good place to spend some time, and then move on.

Miniature Hoodoos

Sandstone

Kelly at the Cruisers' Shrine

INTREPID II hand-made burgee and Whiteshell II work of art

Long dusty road to stretch legs

INTREPID II at anchor Caleta San Juanico