Cruising Season 9 - October & November 2019

INTREPID II in the water at last

Thanks to family and friends who have been asking for updates about INTREPID II and how much more time will we need to repair all the outstanding damages.  The Captain actually spent almost a month in extremely hot, humid June weather in the works yard, working with the rigging crew to install new rigging and fittings.  That was after a month of sourcing and purchasing the appropriate replacements with the assistance of a rigger working our of Portland, Oregon.

Our summer was one of concern and frustration at times as we wondered if our insurance claim would ever be settled and wishing we were provided with updates about its progress. We wonder if the insurance industry really considers the emotional wear and tear on cruisers dealing with a less than transparent process.  However, a settlement cheque came through after Kelly had arrived in San Carlos and that was one less issue on which to focus.

INTREPID II splashed last Monday, November 11 and so far so good as far as leaks and seepages.  Lots to do for outstanding maintenance in the head and cockpit drain and other items on The List which had to take a backseat to more critical repairs from the toppling.  Riggers have promised to be available for the tuning at the dock, and then sails can go on and further tuning under sail.

Cruisers and other land based folks are steadily arriving in San Carlos and Kelly has connected with a good number - all trying to get their vessels ready for the important goal of actually setting sail.

The Admiral will soon head south.   She is hopeful there will be new destinations and voyages to relate in the coming months.  Thanks for joining us.

January 2019 in San Carlos

Glorious sunset over San Francisco Bay

Oops - it is already February 13th as I finally managed to upload pictures from my cell phone and tempermental camera to the Captain's laptop - just enough challenges each time to take the fun out of sitting down to do an update.  However, we have photos now convey how we are spending time in the relatively warmer climes of San Carlos, while family and friends are enduring frigid weather in Alberta and heavy masses of snow in Victoria.

What our house-sitter has to deal with (photo credit MLH)

Three weeks of January were spent in a more spacious, but less inviting rented casita near the San Carlos golf course.  The outstanding plumbing and electrical issues were finally addressed and we often enjoyed sitting by the pool under the large palapa, reading and sipping a beverage and discussing the day's progress.  A sweet semi-feral cat at times kept us company; she appeared to be attached to the complex and less timid than several other cats we spotted gathered by the dumpster outside the gate.  There are no shortage of 'events' to attend in this community, including the Rotary Club "Cow Plop Bingo" and volunteering for the 2nd annual Women's March against Violence.  That event coincided with the January 20th Super Blood Wolf Full Moon which had us staying up long past "cruisers' midnight" to admire and be awed by the incredible show.

Blood Full Moon with eclipse at start then almost complete

We were pleased to return to our earlier rental accommodations nearer the marina, in yet another of the six units, which has a spectacular view.  Of course, to complete the cycle, we were under the weather when we left and the "crud" was acting up again as we moved in.  However, waking up to inspiring sunrises or  flights of pelicans across the bay and sipping morning coffee with binoculars at the ready is a definite way to rest and recover.

Our morning panorama - a setting for variety of shore and sea birds 

A trip to the Sunday market in Empalme was long overdue.  When the weather cooperated at month end, we made the trek south of Guaymas.  The search for additional tropical shirts was challenging, but successful; fresh vegetables to complement those at the Saturday market in San Carlos were in abundance.  At last we located "the" place from which to buy shrimp at the entrance/exit to Empalme.  Half a kilo of the large azul camarones and half a kilo of the medium regular kind. We enjoyed showing Empalme to cruising friends Ann and Barry, who were readying S.V. Cat's Paw IV to cruise the Sea of Cortez, having completed their circumnavigation. Great to catch up with Bluewater Cruising Association members!  We rested up after our trek through the market stalls with delicious breakfast and lunch offerings at Cocina de Rita in the small community of San Jose de Guaymas.

View of village square and church in San Jose de Guaymas from Cocina de Rita

Camarones azul from Empalme

We do take time to be "tourists" as well.  After many years of construction, an impressive lookout on the way to Marina Real provides panoramic views to the far side of the Tetakawis and across to the south over the Sea of Cortez. 

View to the east of Tetakawis from Mirador Lookout

 

And at the marina seca??

Boat projects continued at various stages of progress throughout the month.  The Captain does intend to provide his commentary from a technical perspective as time permits.  He spent considerable time online searching for thru hull replacements, which did arrive in good time.  He then spent even more time arranging for the necessary marine grade sealant with which to install them.  The sealant is not available locally and cannot be shipped by air into Mexico.  By chance, a cruising friend had an Amazon Prime order being shipped to Tucson and we were able to add the sealant to his order.  In very reasonable time our small package arrived and the thru hull replacement could proceed.  Just one example of where the time goes when you undertake boat projects!

Carnaval Guaymas - what we did instead!

The City of Guaymas hosts one of the oldest celebrations of Carnaval in Mexico and the activities are almost at an end.  Here is what we chose to miss:
"Guaymas' beachside malecon will be transformed into a party promenade...the week of February 8 - 13 will be filled with the burning of the bad humor, crowning of the Carnaval Queen and Rey Feo (Ugly King), concerts, theater, poetry readings, fireworks, parades and all night parties."  "Four days of parades, food and beer stands, pulsating dance music, carnival rides."

We enjoy parties, parades and fireworks; we don't enjoy crowds, noise, and driving after dark.  In previous cruising seasons, when INTREPID II had sailed to La Paz and to Mazatlan, we certainly took advantage of the opportunities to see Carnavale activities first hand.  In La Paz, we walked along the Malecon and found excellent spots to view the parades. In Mazatlan, cruising friends had secured tickets for bleachers and fireworks viewings and we rode buses to and from the marina.  Somehow, this time around, the logistics for Guaymas aren't as appealing and we chose to stay 'close to home'.  Tomorrow is Shrove or Pancake Tuesday and that we definitely will celebrate!

Part of our lack of enthusiasm might be due to the effects of the "San Carlos crud" (which can and has occurred, anywhere).  Whether it is the desert dust and vegetation, the construction activities in this neighbourhood, the general wear and tear of the ongoing boat project complications or all of the above, we are once again 'under the weather'.  So we self-prescribe: everything from etchinacea, herbal teas, fresh sources of vitamin C, Tylenol, naps, Ricola and Fisherman's Friend lozenges.  If these remedies aren't effective, we still have doctor's appointments for late Friday afternoon.

INTREPID II still receives her daily visits, only we haven't tackled 'big projects' for a few days.  The Admiral has fine-tuned the hand-rail covers and the batik curtains to her satisfaction. Today the Captains of several sailboats stood on the dock consulting and commiserating - this is definitely a cruising season where "cruising" is still an elusive goal for many of us. There is often camaraderie and helping hands when needed.

Carrying roller furling to parking lot to unroll and fix set-screws

Ongoing consultation and commiseration

Dorade vent shiny once again

We followed through on our efforts to 'take a break' on Sundays, especially as we weren't too energetic and drove out to Playa Algodones (also known as Catch-22 beach).  The Soggy Peso is a long-standing San Carlos institution - a beach shack bar and restaurant - which we had yet to visit.
The view was impressive, the beach sandy, the water sparkling and shades of blue.  We ordered a light lunch and still brought home half our meals for later.  The band was setting up and every table full inside and out as we wandered out to walk the beach before driving 'home'.

Soggy Peso - worth a visit!

We had a great view on arrival

Happy Captain

Sun, sand and sniffles - oh well

Weekend wrap up - Saturday, February 3

Time to stop and smell the desert and sea!

There is a monthly "tianguis" or flea market/swap meet the first Saturday of each month at Bahia Storage, with the 150 pesos fee to vendors going towards education needs in the community.  We had not found enough items to sell to warrant setting up a table, but we headed over to the Bahia neighbourhood to see what treasurers were on offer.  Items are often of a nautical nature, including outboard engines, various fittings, left-overs and spares no longer needed.  A crowd always converges first thing and most folks know that if you really want to find bargains, it is best to set up early as a vendor and buy your items before the general public are allowed in.  It is a social event as well as fellow cruisers stroll by.  No boat parts for us, but we scored a good length of light coloured Sunbrella fabric and some black screening - for the Admiral's fabric bin. 

The morning was sunny and bright after two gloomy grey days, so we parked at the marina and treated ourselves to breakfast at Barracuda Bob's, sitting out in the warm sun.  Eggs Bennie and Quiche, OJ and coffee hit the spot.  Paid our marina bill for February; walked to Star Marine, where we were pleasantly surprised to find the raw water impeller model we needed. The price was reasonable and 'a bird in the hand' was the deciding factor.  Our spares are 'somewhere' onboard.

We rounded out the late morning with a visit to INTREPID, then to the Altered Tails Bookstore and the vendors set up on the marina walkway.  Altered Tales is a used bookstore run by the SBPA (Sociedad Benefactra y Proteccion Animales) which accepts books and donations to support spay and neuter clinics in San Carlos.   Outside their door were boxes of fresh produce which caught our eye.  The vendor had a 'special' on offer - mix and match your choice of veggies and fruit for either 60 pesos ($4.25) or 90 pesos ($5.65).  Too good to pass up!  Our purchases will make for  tasty, healthy meals this coming week.

Valencia oranges and ruby red grapefruit - 60 pesos

Beans, squash, cherry tomatoes, cherry bombs, brussell sprouts - 60 pesos

On to the Rescate (volunteer emergency services) thrift store to drop off a donation and to check out the weekly market held in the compound.  Vendors there offer hand woven blankets, baskets, carvings, jewelry, veggies, food; we just missed a performance by some young dancers.  A lively place.

Weekly market at Rescate compound

Working on Boat Projects under sunny skies

Now that INTREPID II is on A dock in Marina San Carlos, we began our efforts to untangle messenger lines - our lines stretched over the two years and conveniently tangled themselves around the mast steps.  The halyards need to be raised, sails hanked on; the cabin below is still filled with canvas, sails, lines, tools and equipment.  We have cleared the galley and cupboards to give them a thorough cleaning and freshened up towels and bedding left in storage in large zip-lock baggies.
Somehow, many items replicated and reproduced - so the local thrift stores will benefit as we sort and cull our stock of dishes, plastic containers and wine glasses!

We've unexpectedly been under the weather since Monday evening and have lost 2 days of productive work while we regain our energy.  San Carlos has well regarded doctors and we were thankfully referred to one by our neighbours.  Not great timing, but we should bounce back before Christmas.

A Long Awaited Reunion!

After much too long a time, S.V. INTREPID II and her crew have reunited in the works yard of Marina San Carlos Marina Seca.  Two years of Sonoran sun, wind, rain and a hurricane in the fall of 2016 have left their marks on our sturdy sailboat.  We are working diligently to clean off the initial layers of dust and grime, inspect everything that will be below the water line, polish the prop, replace the zinc, check all the through-hulls.  In the cabin interior, the strength of the winds ensured that a thorough cleaning is in store - grit and dust especially in the galley.  A busy week of TLC.

Our drive from Victoria to San Carlos took us to Portland, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Green Valley and across the border at Nogales. Weather and road conditions were good.  Highway 15 through Hermosilla and on to San Carlos was a 'work in progress' with a massive amount of new highway being laid down on one side or the other, requiring a steady zig-zag along mostly single undivided lanes.  San Carlos was waiting for us on our arrival!  We found a room for Monday and Tuesday evening while we arranged for an apartment for the coming weeks.  The view is lovely and we have space to set up the sewing machine for projects and repairs.  The abundance of 'boat stuff' that accumulates is being sorted and thinned out - otherwise we'd have to keep raising INTREPID'S waterline.

Based on upcoming high tides, we plan on putting INTREPID in the water mid-week (13th) to continue our preparations: hanking on sails, re-running all the lines, halyards, checking every fitting and connection; the usual!  The Northers didn't wait long to remind us of their force and impact.  Thursday and Friday they blew fiercely for 48 hours.  Friends in Mazatlan noted in their blog that the winds impacted their departure plans.  All part of cruising in the Sea of Cortez.

Wishing you all a happy holiday season.  Christmas lights are twinkling against the backdrop of sea and mountains.

Hurricane Newton Impact September 6

Hurricane Newton!

There are no words to truly convey how we felt almost two weeks ago when it became clear that Hurricane/Tropical Storm Newton would indeed cross the Sea of Cortez and make a second landfall very close to San Carlos and Guaymas.  At this time of year - hurricane season, with INTREPID II on the hard, we regularly review the NOAA National Hurricane Center link, which is extremely informative. This NOAA chart shows year to date tracks of hurricanes; number 14, Newton headed north!

Courtesy of NOAA National Hurricane Center - 2016 Hurricanes to date

The data is of course a forecast and at first the advisories indicated the impact of Newton would lose power by the time its intended path veered across from the Baja California Sur peninsula towards the Sonoran coastline.  However, late Tuesday, September 6th, we knew that there would be considerable impact on the area; we were foremost concerned for those living in the area; we were obviously concerned for our sailboat.

This photo shows INTREPID II on her way from the works yard to dry storage last year; ready to weather the Sonoran elements.

Heading to dry storage at San Carlos marina seca

Marina San Carlos' marina seca provides a secure and for the most part, sound arrangement for storing boats 'on the hard'.   Mother Nature of course has a force which can overcome any and all precautions.  We gleaned our information from various newsletter links, a San Carlos forum and bits and pieces as local papers were able to report.  For several hours there was mostly speculation, then photos began to appear, citing 'damage at marina seca'....which dry storage area?

Marina San Carlos dry storage did indeed experience strong winds and even more rain; at least one row of boats suffered the 'domino effect' and tilted over one after the other.  We sent off an anxious email to the staff asking if they could provide any assurance, knowing they were in the midst of dealing with the impact for themselves and the storage yard.  In spite of the deluge of requests, staff did indeed send us replies...cautiously stating that INTREPID II was not on the list of damaged boats. A second email stated that boat owners with damaged boats would receive and email and photos in order to contact insurance brokers.

"As you probably know hurricane Newton hit San Carlos Tuesday night, we sustained damage to some of the docks at the Marina from the high winds during the night.  Some boats in the marina have scratches from rubbing against the docks but no major damage or structural issues are visible.

At Marina Seca some boats fell over on their side we are currently picking the boats up and setting them back on their keels. We sent an email with pictures to the owners of the boats affected by the hurricane, if you didn't receive an email is because your boat has no damage.

Thank you for your understanding!"

In the meantime, forum members rallied to provide second-hand information from whatever sources they had and provided photos where available.  To date we have not been advised otherwise that our boat is remaining upright and undamaged but we are hopeful.  The wind and rain certainly may have damaged items onboard and we hope we will receive more detailed information soon.

Fingers crossed!  Wishing all those cruisers who did receive bad news will have a successful and smooth experience putting their boats back together.  And thankfully, there were few injuries that we are aware of and communities have rallied to support clean-up and restoration throughout the area.

San Carlos update from the Captain

Beach near La Greiga restaurante, San Carlos

How quickly time passes, yet how slowly as well!  Kelly still has no access to internet.  He's hoping for one last try this morning to obtain a relatively small but critical replacement part to get his laptop monitor functioning.  Fingers crossed!  It is amazing how we have become reliant on technology; everything from checking weather (whether for land or boat passages), the news of the world, emails, banking, Skype and entertainment during those long evenings away from home.

San Carlos at dusk

The transmission was re-installed late last week but not yet tested due to a lack of appropriate transmission fluid.  Another mystery as we were certain we had left some in the store room.  The rudder work is progressing and hopefully will be finished today.  Kelly has almost decided it is time to consider replacing, rather than repairing our 30 year old head. It is likely some other parts are plotting to act up if he repairs the current culprits.  At the moment he is eyeing the space in our Subaru wagon for what items will fit to bring back home.  It would have been great to empty out the rental storeroom but we have found it so useful when we recommission INTREPID II.  We can  shift sail bags, boat supplies, bikes, etc. back and forth to allow us room to sort and clean.  We can even sleep in the cabin while we prepare her for a cruising season!

It is time to replace any aluminum foil, duct tape and other protective coverings we had set up on deck.  That includes in the portlights to protect equipment from the intense Sonoran sun and other elements during the coming months.  Kelly has checked out the sea-cocks and has tentative plans for modifying them to minimize the frustration getting to some of them. There are four located in incredibly inaccessible spots in the galley; another project to plan and scope out once back home.

If all goes well, the Captain will head home mid-week, saying adios to our cruising friends who are currently in San Carlos.  We wish those of you still on the high Sea of Cortez "fair winds".

The Captain is back in San Carlos

The Captain had a tiring, but safe journey by land; he drove for three and a half long days to San Carlos.  Now the boat work begins.  INTREPID II has been moved from dry storage to the works yard at Marina Seca, where he can tackle maintenance and projects.  Kelly will be updating his adventures as he has time and wifi connections; however, we wanted our cruising buddies to know he had arrived and is more than happy to take a few breaks and reconnect with anyone who is still in the San Carlos/Guaymas area.

Back home it is pouring down rain!  At least one of us can enjoy the Mexican sunshine, cervezas and all the other delightful things we so look forward to when we cruise.  It is extremely disappointing that we won't have a 2012-2013 cruising season.  At least our sailboat will have some TLC and be ready for us in the fall.

Here and there in Guaymas and San Carlos

Metal sun plaque at Hotel Armida - a great place for brunch

Metal cross at Panchito Villas (in the bano!)

A talevera designed wash basin - very colourful


The junior school drum and bugle corps - who often practice on the malecon in the evening

Looking out to the anchorage from the marina office



INTREPID II - the last sailboat on the dock - somewhat dwarfed by the Hatteras yacht next to us! This zoomed photo shows how close we are to the centre of the city and the malecon

 

La Choperia - the source of many of our sleep deprived nights - up on the second level of the marina complex -booming music until 3 am - way past cruisers midnight!



A new find - Moy - a bulk food store - the only source of peanut oil we know of - we hope to attempt making our own peanut butter with the handy-dandy Magic Bullet

 

Our intrepid Subaru wagon on Lopez Ave outside Ferreteria 66