Anchorages in review - San Juanico - Arrival (April 13)

Nav station with weather notes, log book and 'to do' list

Friday, April 13th: we often hear that cruisers should not head out on this date.  We rationalize that our cruise is 'in progress'.  We left La Paz ten days ago and our log book records this fact for any wind or sea gods to please take note!

It is 69 F in the cabin, 62 F outside, 67 in the pool and the bar is 1014. Stan's forecast is for W 4 - 6 kms and WSW 12 - 16 kms at night for the northern half of the Sea; NW 14 - 19, with WNW 6 - 8 for the southern half. Saturday could be W 15 - 21. These are weather updates we receive via Winlink from a volunteer weather guru who's full time job is as a vet.  Guru Geary advises for the northern crossing (Santa Rosalia to Guaymas) Friday am NE 6 - 9 with afternoon winds ENE 13 - 17; for Saturday NE 18 - 23 kms.  The Loreto area should see SSE 10 - 13 kms for the afternoon.

Checking out cruising guide enroute

Basically we know the winds will be stronger in the next few days.  We want to be someplace secure where we can spend a few days with some options for moving around as the winds sort themselves out.  36 nautical miles away lies Caleta San Juanico, tucked in behind Punta San Basillio.  This anchorage is a special place and one we always look forward to.  Today we were underway by 08:15, expecting to take 7 hours for the trip.

Heading north we quickly were hit by 2 - 3 foot swells from the north-east. These would continue for the entire trip, building to 4 and 5 feet at times; definitely impacting our progress.  This was a motor sail trip.  The winds finally picked up to 12 knots SE at 14:30, so we got a boost at long last. Along the way we heard SV Salish Sea on the VHF and found that Ian and Diane were heading into Guaymas already for their haulout.  The reception was so clear we thought they were on the Baja peninsula side!

As we headed into Caleta San Juanico, the winds shifted to the east and we wondered what that would bring in the way of swells. The small bay in front of the cruisers' shrine was occupied by one sailboat in such a considerate way no one else could fit in.  Everyone else had lined up further west from north to south. INTREPID II 'parked' between Mood Indigo to port and Content to starboard.

San Juanico neighbours

INTREPID II at anchor San Juanico

On with the anchor snubber, out with the flopper stoppers; with one out off the boom to starboard, anticipating those easterly swells.  By 15:00 we were settled in at 26 degrees 22.001 N, 111 degrees 25.831 W, looking forward to a few days of rest, hiking and catching up with friends.  There were so many things to record that we'll have to have a separate blog posting!

Anchorages in review - Punta Perico South, Isla Carmen (April 11 - 13)

Looking to west shore of Punta Perico

This morning we listened to comments from cruisers around the central Sea of Cortez as they checked in to the Sonrisa net.   Southerly winds clocking round to westerlies occurred everywhere. No one had a good night, it seems.  Diane on SV True Love, anchored at the Coronados, advised things had been 'idyllic until the wind went nuts!"  At Bonanza beach on the SE side of Isla Espiritu Santos, the corumels blew 18 to 20 knots all night; a power boat dragged in Aqua Verde.  Seems we were in good company.  We didn't envy our volunteer weather gurus when the 'localized' conditions turned their necessarily generalized forecasts upside down and they listened to all our tales of woe.

Geary predicted "northerlies in most of the sea for Wednesday and Thursday", so it was time to move on.  We wrote 'who knows?" in our boat log under Forecast.  Our sights were set almost due north of us, to Punta Perico South, on the east side of Isla Carmen, 17 nm away.  This small bay offered good north wind protection and was just under 4 hours away.  At 10:00, in overcast skies promising to clear to blue, and a WSW wind of 12 -15 knots, we checked our depth as we motor sailed past the islets; just 30 feet at one spot.  At noon our sails were filled, engine was off and we enjoyed the quiet, sunny day, making just over 5 knots.  We could see our destination.  Our sail was graced with visits by a jumping ray, dolphins leaping and swimming along side, flights of pelicans and a curious sea lion.

Of course, the wind plays games and we were heading too far to NE.  A quick tack to port, but our speed was dropping to 3.7 knots.  On with the engine and rolled up the jib to make our way in to yet another "new to us" anchorage.  At 13:40 we were anchored in 17 feet at 25 degrees 58.289 N, 111 degrees 04.583 W. The winds filled in from the north at 14 - 15 knots, as predicted.  A quick lunch and then a long nap!  We felt secure and sheltered and needed to catch up on last night's lost hours.

Fishermen's camp on shore

Although the winds continued in the 15 knot range, we enjoyed our chance to relax and observe the small fish camp onshore.  The beach here is a gravel one; the fishermen appear to store supplies in the small cave on the western side of the bay.   A starry, starry night appeared; so different from 24 hours ago.  We were fascinated by the phosphorescence lighting up the water.  Something was swimming swiftly to and fro and putting on a show.  A quiet night.

Soft skies at dusk looking towards Bahia Salinas

Thursday morning we heard on the net that a strong earthquake had been felt on the mainland, near Los Cardenas, north of San Carlos.  Winds were still expected to be NNE 15 - 19 near Loreto, just around the corner.  A good day to stay put and do boat chores.  We also checked in to the Amigo Net (8122) and made contact with SV Picara who were sailing offshore.  It was satisfying to have a quick chat with Mike and wish him and Marnie continuing good winds as they headed towards the Marquesas.  We later determined that the earthquake had been magnitude 6.9, centred closer to the Baja peninsula, but felt strongly in the San Carlos area.  Not all that far away, but we hadn't noticed any impact on the water.

It was a busy day for radio contacts as we heard from folks on SV Charlotte Alane and SV Tamburan.  Today's 'norther' seemed to be staying in the 16 knot range and very manageable.  Towards 17:00 pm we were joined by a power boat who anchored, then re-anchored and put out a stern line.  They quickly dropped their dinghy with a splash and zipped off to fish for the evening's main course. 

North shore - gravel beach

East side of Punta Perico - with reef extending south

Cacti marching up north slope

Later that evening, we listened to the Southbound net for an update on the earthquake but didn't learn anything more.  We turned in with the north wind gusting to 12 kms.  It shifted to the west about 03:00; we ended up rolling in the swell which hit us on the beam.  Dragged ourselves up at 06:30 finally as there was not much sleep to be had. 

Layers and colours and contours