Road Trip - Todos Santos & El Triunfo - Dec. 28

Our Christmas present to ourselves was sharing a rental car with friends Heidi and Russ of SV Tillicum I, whom we'd first met back in Oceanside, then in San Diego and once again here in La Paz.  We'd planned to go exploring before Christmas, but postponed the trip to Dec. 28th - better rates, less hectic, etc.  We'd all heard about the piano museum in El Triunfo, a short drive south of La Paz and thought a day in the countryside would be fun and give us a taste of Baja California Sur and its history.

We headed out by 9 a.m. and soon agreed we could fit in a visit to Todos Santos first, which is on the Pacific side of the peninsula and which we'd all only seen in passing as we sailed past it (for us 4 am or so) on the way down to Cabo San Lucas.  Unfortunately, the clouds rolled in and raindrops were falling as we arrived in Todos Santos -- what's a few raindrops if you are from the B.C.??  Well, as we explored the art galleries (Galeria Logan was a special favorite) and artisan shops of Todos Santos and the "Legendary Hotel California" the rain became a downpour and did not let up.  We didn't take time to bargain for Kelly's Mexican shirt, Russ and Heidi did bargain for Heidi's tiles and a fun time was had by all as we got wetter.

Outside the Hotel California - Heidi, Russ and Kelly

Hotel California was a treat - we met the owner, Debbie, at a nearby gallery and were told she was responsible for bringing it "back to life".  She also had spent time in Calgary and Galiano Island - small world.

Lobby - Hotel California

Lunch at Los Adobes - good friends, good food

The lunch menu looked great at the hotel but we explored a bit more and found ourselves at Los Adobes, which had an outdoor courtyard filled with desert plants.  The roof only leaked here and there as the rain continued to fall.

Desert garden in courtyard

Wet but undaunted, we drove back up the highway then east on to El Triunfo, which had been a bustling mining town with the El Progreso Mining Company as the main industry.  The mine closed in 1912 and the town was only recently revived in some part.  Gustav Eiffel designed the principle smokestack - 35 metres tall, which we saw from the road.

Smokestack remains 

In its prime, El Triunfo was a vibrant cultural centre. Unfortunately, the goal of this visit - the Museum of Music, was closed up tight.  There was no sign of open hours, but Heidi managed to spot a grand piano looking rather forlorn through one of the windows when she went back later. We looked for the cafe-restaurant which had displayed its sign out on the road, but it too was closed up tight, as was the municipal hall.  Very disappointing that staff at the car rental office wouldn't mention that on Mondays many things are often closed??

A lovely and practical woven souvenir

We did admire and buy a well made basket woven of palm leaves from a small stand off the main road, and we're investigated by a few dogs as we walked around. 

The road went further - twisting and hairpin at times -- to another mining town, San Antonio - but not much to explore in the rain, so we made our way back through the clouds and mist and agreed we'd enjoyed the outing and camaraderie very much. 

Looking north towards La Paz

HAPPY NEW YEAR - MAY 2010 BE THE BEST YET!

Happy New Year from the INTREPID II crew -- we wish you the very best for 2010: health, happiness, love and laughter, excellent anchorages and smooth sailing, peace and prosperity.

No celebrating for us last night, however, as we've been staying quiet - resting, reading, taking lots of vitamins, drinking pots of green tea and a few other medicinal remedies.  We've both caught different variations of "whatever is out there" and hope to shake it soon.  It actually was quite quiet on the docks last evening although we could hear the fire works from the Magote and a few pistol shots as well, but the Tylenol was working and we only welcomed in cruisers' midnight (9 pm). 

The latest "norther" is slowing down a bit -- we had gusts over 20 knots in the marina and overnight felt the swells - good practice for when we head out next week, if all goes as planned.  There will be quite the exodus in this next week with some heading to the islands and some doing the southern crossing.  La Paz exercises quite a pull on most people, making it hard to untie the dock lines, but there are anchorages to explore and sailing to be had.

Mary Lee, Heidi, Russ in Santa hat and others

Our Christmas celebrations were very enjoyable.  We attended the Club Cruceros' Christmas Eve party, where the highlight was Christmas carols, popular and traditional, headed up by our friends Heidi and Russ of SV Tillicum I.

With all the musical talent they pulled together, it was a real treat for everyone, along with the excellent food and conversation.

We took a quiet walk back at the marina before turning in, and enjoyed the lights on the promenade and decorated boats.

Christmas Day we were able to reach family via Skype -- some connections were good and others not, but we felt connected across those miles being able to hear those warm, familiar voices. Thanks to all who sent us greetings over the Internet, and we hope those of you whom we couldn't reach will know we had you in our thoughts.

The spirit of Christmas treated us well, with a thoughtful invitation from friends Kristi and Paul, whom we last saw a few years ago when they gave a presentation to Bluewater Cruising Association  Victoria Fleet members.  Along with several of their friends, we feasted on turkey and all the trimmings, two excellent desserts, wine, and excellent conversation - and then some professional musical entertainment when the keyboard, trumpet and drums were set up.  We'll remember this Christmas  for many years to come.